Tag: travel

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travel

Why you Shouldn’t Believe the Internet About Morocco

Photo by Taryn Elliott on Pexels.com

I’m writing this post on a sleepy morning in Chefchaouen; the call to prayer long ago waking me up and my stubborn body deciding that it really is time to awaken. A rooster is yelling his good mornings off in the distance and my husband is snoring softly beside me. Everything is quiet except my brain. I can’t help but think about all of the blogs, articles, trip advisor posting and comments about Morocco and how far off they were from the truth. There are so many horrible things you are going to read about Morocco. Honestly, unless they all happened in Marrakech, I’m not sure how they happened at all. I’ve still a couple more days here in Morocco, and all of the stressful and crazy stuff mentored in other blog posts can still happen, but my journey thus far has been a good one…definitely not as relaxing as Europe or a resort, but pure relaxation wasn’t expected.

Being a Woman In a Muslim Country

Okay, so this one problem people talk about (usually in regards to your clothing) is one that started to get on my nerves near the end. BUT, it was never as bad as it was made out to be. No one called to me, no one leered at me, no one made me feel unsafe. If I were traveling alone, or with some other women, the problem may have exacerbated itself. I did see three women get cat-called from a couple of teenage boys in Chefchaouen…but this happens in the streets of Winnipeg, Toronto, everywhere.

The men will address my husband only, even at restaurants when they told us the specials or asked about something. They’d only take his suitcase to help out, which is so hilariously far from the ‘women need help with everything’ mentality in North America. Which, after a long bus ride, I very much appreciate! If we aren’t going to have equal rights, then might as well have the ones that lend us a small helping hand, I suppose.

The Dress Code

Guys, there isn’t really one. Walking around in shorts, rompers or shorter dresses? Probably not the best idea (unless you’re in Casablanca where I saw many locals in shorter skirts and tank tops and no head scarves!). Just remember that you’re in a Muslim country and to dress appropriately. Which doesn’t mean full coverage. Ask yourself if your grandma would approve of your outfit and go from there.

The Aggression

If you haven’t read about aggressive sales people in the souks, then you haven’t been reading about Morocco. But, you can relax. They’re not that bad (again, Marrakech may hold all of these issues…but there are so many other places to go — just skip the circus!), and they will only hassle you for a second. The Fes shop owners would let me look at my leisure, asking me if I was interested in something every so often, but generally being very nice.

I’ve had more annoying sales associates in a mall in North America. People will call out to you to come see their shop, and will always yell out ‘bonjour!’ and ‘welcome!’ To you as you pass. A simple ‘non, merci’ will suffice if you’re not interested in their shop and saying hello back will not get you suckered into buying anything. A quick smile and a ‘bonjour!’ is something everyone can do.

The cab drivers were honestly the worst, always hovering and asking you if you want a taxi, never giving you a minute to collect your thoughts in this new city you just arrived in. Keep telling them ‘one minute’ while you give your brain time to adjust to where you’re going. You WILL get sick of them asking, and if you’re tired and over it, you may tell out ‘UGH WE’RE FINE!!!’ when someone has asked you 10 times if you need a taxi or hotel. I’m not going lie, I did yell this out at a taxi driver who followed us even after we politely said we do not need a taxi (we could almost see our hotel from where we stood) about 20 times.

Be polite, but be firm, and remember NOT to swear at them. Who knows how hard this is enforced, but I’ve read so many places that it’s illegal to swear at a man if you are a woman. Also, swearing at a complete stranger is rude. We got to witness an Aussie bloke have just enough of the taxi men and give it to them about how Morocco always asks for your money. From what I heard him yell about, I guarantee he came from Marrakech as I didn’t find this to be much of the case elsewhere.

Remember that this is their livelihood, that they don’t bring home much. That when you convert MAD to CAD (or USD, GBP or whatever), you’ve sometimes only paid your driver a dollar or 20 bucks. In the end, will 20 bucks make or beak you? Probably not. And if it will, you shouldn’t be on a trip.

Scams

I didn’t have a henna lady grab my arm, I didn’t have anyone be overly aggressive, I didn’t have anyone offer me tea (but I did witness someone doing so to another woman who gave him hell), and only once did we pay someone who ended up as our accidental ‘guide’. This bit happened in the airport when we were stressed, confused, and fine enough with paying. At that point, we just wanted to board the damn plane and little bit of money was worth it.

But, did we get ripped off from our cab drivers or in the souks? Absolutely. There are tons of cab drivers that will constantly rip you off, no matter the country you’re in, and especially if you’re coming or going to an airport. Guys, I once paid 60 bucks to drive for 3 minutes in Toronto. It happens. Budget for it.

Mindful Tip: before being annoyed at anyone for asking for more from you, convert that money back to dollars! That 200 dirham you may only have is only 20 bucks. That 100 dirham charge instead of 50 dirhams is the difference of five bucks in your life, but could mean so much more in theirs. I get it; paying more than you should is annoying, but you shouldn’t let it ruin your trip. Pay it and move on.

It’s not as Beautiful as it Seems*

*in some places

Those beautiful pictures of the beach in Casablanca? The winding streets in the medina in Fes? The desert and nature views? Guys, it’s all filled with garbage. The photo has either been expertly and painstakingly taken at the right angle to get none, or very limited, amounts of garbage. Or, it’s been edited out of every photo. It’s everywhere. You can’t escape it. It’s disgusting and ruins the landscape.

It can’t all be from Moroccans, so be mindful of your garbage when you’re travelling. We don’t need to ruin everything we come across simply because we paid to get there.

Animal Abuse

I wasn’t sure if I wanted to touch base on this or not because it’s something that definitely still happens in Morocco. Hell, it happens in Canada, too. After reading about all the horrific things that happens to animals in Morocco, I nearly wanted to cancel our trip, but I’m glad I didn’t.

Because it’s not as rampant as everyone makes it seem. At least, not out in public.

Spana Charity has done great work and there have been, no doubt, vast improvements. Working animals are a way of life. The only way for some people to get their products to market, to go anywhere.

There are thousands of cats in the streets and spay and neutering will help this problem, but they’re fed well by locals and tourists alike. Water, leftovers, and even kibble is left out for the adorable creatures who spend days lazing in the sun or in baskets found on sale in the market.

There are many stray dogs, and it hurts your heart to see so many stray animals, but they look content with a lot of the cats snuggling up with shop owners and getting scritches. I’m not a vet so I’ve no idea if they’re sick or not (nearly all look fine to my general eyes), but rest assured, animal abuse won’t accost you.

Moroccans are some of the nicest people I’ve ever met. We’ve had some great experiences with cab drivers helping us out (like driving through a field to get out of a traffic jam or calling our hotel at 430 in the morning and making sure there was someone there and that we got to where we’re going) and amazing experiences altogether.

A lot of blog posts on the Internet like to paint them in a bad light, making them seem greedy and rude. Which can be true with some, as it always is everywhere. But, a lot of the issues we encountered were not unlike the ones we encounter on a daily basis at home. Perhaps the most annoying part of any issue while on vacation is that it found you on vacation. Any problem, even a little insignificant one, becomes 10x bigger because you’re here to relax and explore and the world should bend in your favour. But, you’re in Morocco, in friggin’ Africa! Things are not going to be easy because life here isn’t easy.

Take a moment to collect yourself and just get on with it. Your trip will be sunnier when you stop worrying about every little thing that could go wrong, or how you spent more than the cab than a local. That’s travelling, is it not?

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travel

What to do if you end up in a Bad Accommodation

Photo by Mehmet Turgut Kirkgoz on Pexels.com

Once, I stayed in a horrible place in Brazil. It was my first time traveling alone abroad and I was with my friend who lived there. We decided to go to Buzios, a beach town that I highly recommend, and stayed in a place her mom said had great food. Well, maybe the food was great, but the accommodations sucked. The beds were awful, there were kids next door (who seemed to live there) who were extremely loud and watched cartoons at high decibels early in the morning. Dogs barked all night long and we could hear people constantly.

Not knowing anything about Brazil besides my friend’s parent’s apartment (that was pretty nice) I was staying in before we went to Buzios, I thought to myself that this might be normal. My friend seemed to be sleeping and didn’t say anything the whole night. I decided I’d suck it up and just go with it. Then, the next morning came and my friend said we had to leave, that this place was absolutely awful. Sighing with relief, I packed my suitcase and we found an absolutely amazing hotel a little further down the road. It was expensive (for Brazil standards, but our dollar was much stronger) and my friend hesitated. I said it was my treat and happily booked the weekend for CAD$70.

Sometimes, bad accommodations happen. Sometimes, there are little things you can live with like tiny hotels or apartments, 5th floor walk-ups or a shitty view. Other times, you may feel unsafe or not receive a good night’s sleep. Always, always, always leave if you feel unsafe in a place. You don’t even need to book in. If you feel uneasy the second you step inside, cut your losses and go elsewhere. Never stay somewhere that makes you feel unsafe just to save a buck or two.

On my last trip to Paris our apartment sucked. It was in the 5th floor (y’all know that means 6 flights of stairs, not 5), it was tiny and while it was cleaned, it wasn’t as clean as I would’ve liked. The first two things are normal in the Paris apartment world, especially if you don’t want to pay 200€/night. The cleanliness? Once I wiped down a counter with wet ones, I felt okay. Our bathroom had a bathtub and no shower curtain. Showering in the morning took some maneuvering not to flood the place.

Annoyed at the time (and with a lot of things going wrong on that trip), I wondered if, at 31, I was too old to be doing these kind of travel stories. I should be in a plush hotel with balconies in every corner. Then, I stepped outside and went on my way exploring and re-visiting my favourite city and it was okay. Now that I’ve put some time and distance between myself and the apartment, I’m not as annoyed, not as upset.

If it’s something you can talk to the hotel or your airbnb host about, do it. Don’t yell at them, but ask them about any issues you have or bring up any concerns. They may be unaware (like a shitty house cleaner) and it can help you and guests in the future.

If it’s something really bad and it falls under any protection plan by the third party website, contact them. Read through their entire guidelines immediately to make sure you’re calling them for the right reason and at the right time (like if they will not cover you if you stay the night).

Leave an honest review. Scathing reviews aren’t needed, but don’t sugarcoat things. If you had a hard time with x, let other potential guests know, especially if you enjoyed your time, but if you knew about it going in, you’d have had a better time (like ear plugs and noise cancelling head phones in that Buzios place).

Buy what you need and chalk it up to a travel experience. Obviously, this can get expensive real quick, but if it’s something relatively cheap and easy to get and it will definitely make your stay better, just do it. That Buzios hotel? Not enough towels, at all. So, I bought some and still use my adorable fish patterned towels today. Other cheap items that make stays infinitely better? Wine. Lots of it.

Don’t let it ruin your trip. Unless your trip was meant for spa and plush luxuries, get over it. Have a cry, have a yell, curse the country you’re visiting, then get on with it. Because there’s more out there to see than your hotel room.

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travel

Overtourism is Ruining the Charm of Travel

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I have something to confess: I think I’m breaking up with Paris.

No longer does she woo me with her charm. No longer is the city invigorating and inviting to me. No longer does my heart sing and all my worries disappear. Instead, I’m left with dread, annoyance and confusion as to what my city used to be. While Paris has never been my place of residence, I’ve felt a deep connection to it, one that restores my hope and happiness.

Overtourism is killing everything around us. And, it’s not just affecting long line-ups, the environment and locals, it’s affecting me. And we all know that’s a real reason to freak out.

It’s not just Paris that I’m breaking up with, I’ve been thinking long and hard about my long-term relationship with travel and whether or not we should end it.

After my next trip that is being taken to visit a friend who has gone to live abroad, I’m thinking twice about big vacations. I’m wondering if they’re worth it and whether or not I should continue taking them. If it’s just crowded areas of tourists seeking the same thing, then why am I going? I don’t need to have snowflake unique vacations, completely different than everyone else, but when the vibe of the city, the whole reason you’re seeing a new place, is gone or altered because of tourists, then why be that tourist?

I’ve also wondered about posting travel tips on my old blog, and now stories here. Do I want to urge others to continue travelling? Is it really something people should still be doing so obsessively? I’m no longer impressed with someone moving away for a year or three to travel the world; who hasn’t done that in this day and age? But, then, I also think about how exciting it was to travel for the first time, the feeling of being totally on your own and figuring things out. This was a little harder as Google Translate didn’t exist and roam-as-you-go plans weren’t a thing yet when I started. I had to buy a phone and then pay-as-you-go cards, topping up in a different country as we moved and used up minutes, for my first month long trip. But, that was part of the fun, part of exploring a new city or new country; you didn’t know what the fuck you were doing and that was okay. The ambiance of the place shone through and you got lost in it.

Maybe it’s more than just stopping travel altogether (something I don’t think we should do or would work out). Maybe we become more respectful as a species. Maybe we start by going back to the way things used to be and only stay in Inns, B&B’s, hotels, or God forbid, hostels. Maybe we reserve apartment rentals for when we are really staying long period of time. Longer than a week, longer than a month. While I’m all for renting an apartment abroad and absolutely love heading to the market to make delicious dinners, I don’t like what it’s come to be. Apartments that changes the way the locals live, thus taking away the reason you rented that apartment in Le Marais in the first place: to feel like you’re living a stereotypical Parisienne life (although, the tiny apartment rentals keep you in that stereotype). This is the whole reason I, and many others, rent apartments abroad.

Maybe it’s best if we all stay home and explore the world around us instead of thousands of miles away. Maybe we take less trips and save more and splurge every so often, spending more on tourism in that country than we do now.

Will I be okay with that? Will I be okay simply going to our cabin and relaxing and hiking and exploring my beautiful country? Some days I think so. Then, when I feel like I’ve lost hope in the world, and know how restoring France is for me, I second guess it.

While I scream at the city for changing, for the new people in its life taking its attention away from me, I’m not sure I’ll actually break up with Paris, with traveling. This post has been full of maybes, quietly telling myself, and everyone else, that I’m not done with traveling, not yet.

Because even with the overtourism and the different vibe of the city, it still felt familiar, it still felt like home. I remembered those roads I would walk down to the market. I remembered the hardness of the green chairs in the Tuileries as I’d scribble down thoughts or read until the chill in the air was too much and I had to break for a café au lait. I still felt the excitement when coming across something new or driving through the winding roads of the South of France.

These feelings are the ones I remember when I think of traveling and I hope that they won’t be lost forever.

Categories
travel

The New Way I’m Travelling

Photo by Leah Kelley on Pexels.com

Slowing right down. Taking it all in instead of rushing around. Staying longer and relaxing.

Remember when you could travel and you weren’t connected 24/7? When you had to fumble through awkward language barriers because Google translate didn’t exist yet. When you needed a real map instead of your phone. When your phone wouldn’t work, not because it was expensive to operate while abroad, but simply because it wouldn’t work overseas.

When you’d wander around, not for Instagram shots, but to just feel the life breathing around you, the lives lived and lost inside and out of the walls surrounding you.

Remember when travel was more than just the 2,688,098 things you could see for free? When it was more than one-upping the faceless persons on the internet? When it didn’t matter if you saw the tourist attractions because you’d also find some gems, too, simply because you’d get lost on your way to seeing said tourist attractions. You’d stumble, and fumble, and fall right into that adorable cafe, or enchanting park. You’d explore a new neighborhood, taking your time because, well, you didn’t know where the fuck you were.

You didn’t worry about trying to have the most authentic trip you could, because you were already doing that. Yeah, you might have had a tour guide or two, and yeah, you might be seeing a lot of touristy stuff and paying quadruple, but you weren’t worried about that because you were exploring a new world to you.

I remember when staying in apartments was weird. I loved it. Loved it because it was cheaper than hotels. Loved it because I generally enjoy grocery shopping, and even more in a foreign country. Traipsing off to the markets to buy food I wouldn’t be able to at home, to peruse the snack section at a grocery store, to happily tuck a bottle of wine from the little corner store down from your apartment is what traveling is about. At least, for me it is.

But, just like everything that becomes too mainstream, it comes with a price. No longer is it exciting and fun to fall into new places and new experiences. It’s demanded of you. Why aren’t you staying in an apartment? Hotels, and their concierge services, are the scum of the Earth. Why would you stay in an apartment? It’s ruining the housing economy everywhere! Why would you ever pay a tour guide to bring you around a city? A cab? You must be joking…only true travellers walk everywhere. Why wouldn’t you live in a van and travel for a year? Everyone and their kids are doing it. You must, too! It’s authentic, don’t you know.

I’ve definitely given a few of these tips out myself. The finding the hidden gems (although my advice is always just walk and explore and hang out, letting the city/town soak into you). Staying in an apartment. Nixing some tourist attractions. My way of thinking has changed over the years, evolving with the giant tourism boom. I’m more worried about the environment, about the people who actually live in these places, about the stress I’m now feeling trying to have the perfect Instagram-worthy vacation.

Honestly, it’s more in my self-interest to change the way that I travel, that everyone travels. I’ve always been an advocate for doing what you want on a trip. Yes, staying in an apartment can be immensely better than a hotel. But, sometimes hotels are infinitely better. See: spa packages and as many pillows as you wish. Yes, it’s amazing that people are seeing more of the world, but have you seen the damn line-ups, recently? Not my cup of tea. It feels like all of the quiet haunts I used to love are now overcrowded as more and more people find them and tell everyone to go there. Simply for a like or two. It’s why I’ll often keep beautiful, quiet places to myself. Or, I’ll tell a friend who is visiting to check it out, but I won’t blast it over the internet. There’s something about keeping that hidden gem…hidden.

I highly doubt we will be traveling this year, and if we are, it will only be in our country. I won’t be stepping on a plane until things calm way down. I won’t feel comfortable, so why waste the money? I’ve gone back and forth over whether or not I like that I’m not traveling. Sometimes, I can’t wait to get out there and my hand starts inching closer to booking a vacation. But, I’m trying to tamp that feeling down. I don’t want to go on vacation just to go. I want to go because I miss the streets of Paris, because I want to relax on the beach and explore the rainforest, because I want to see and immerse myself in everything the country I’ve chosen for the next 3–4 weeks has to offer.

I’ve written about this before. Before the pandemic. At the start of the pandemic. Because our worlds were tipped upside down. I had enough of traveling, of being in an airport for hours upon hours. Of jet lag. Of overcrowded streets. I wanted to explore my own country, and that’s still true, but with a break in travel, I’m still reaching for more foreign pastures. And, that’s okay. Next time I go I’ll try to unplug, try to bring myself back to the way it used to be. When traveling meant figuring it out on your own, and finding a little bit of yourself along the way.

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Mom Life travel

The Stress of Boarding a Plane with a Baby

Photo by Paul Hanaoka on Unsplash

When we decided to go on a trip to France with our 11 month old, it didn’t seem crazy or strange. It felt normal. I wanted to go on a trip, had been waiting for a time to come when we could travel safely and freely, again, and had felt pent up after two years of staying inside or close to home. Wanting a cute family trip, we picked France due to the amazing rate I found on an apartment overlooking the sea in Antibes, and the fact that we felt comfortable there. While it felt normal to go on a trip with a baby, I wasn’t ready to jet off to Morocco with one.

Travelling with a baby is hard and stressful at times, but it’s also a wonderful journey with your little one you’ll never forget. It doesn’t matter that they won’t remember it — some things you just do for yourself. Besides, the photo of my daughter sitting in the Mediterranean Sea or frolicking in front of the Eiffel Tower are some of my favourites. The memory of sitting with her in a cafe while it lightly rained outside is one I’ll never forget. It never concerned me about what we would do once we got to France, never concerned me that we would have to buy diapers there or formula or take it a little low. What concerned me was the flight.

After following numerous baby/family travel accounts on Instagram and researching everything I needed to know about bringing an infant on a plane, I felt confident in what we needed, but felt more anxiety than I had in a long time. I felt like crying thinking about people getting angry and making huffing comments to me about my child and my lack of respect towards them. The same type of people who would talk loudly while everyone slept or take up more than their fair share of space or recline their seat the second they’re in the air, I’m sure. I read all sorts of horrible things that people said about babies being on flights, essentially meaning that babies should be no where near humans or civilization until they are — at least — 8 years old and can sit quiet for a while, content with an activity book.

I was ready to be awake the entire flight, knowing that I’d be exhausted, but not wanting to be that asshole with a crying baby for the entirety of the flight. I brought so many snacks and toys and everything we would need, cramming in every last piece until our suitcases were about to explode. I readied myself for horrific comments, knowing I’d bite back with something scathing yet cry in the bathroom later.

So, when I boarded that plane with baby, I was surprised when the flight attendants smiled at her, entertained by her winning smile and all around adorable 11 month shenangins. On our first flight, a short-haul, no one seemed to bat an eye at the fact that a baby was sitting near them. No one made any comments, no one screamed at us. I breathed a sigh of relief and actually enjoyed those two hours in the air as my daughter ate her snacks, played with her toys, and then napped contently in my arms.

After hours spent in an airport lounge trying to get her giggles and energy out while eating as much as we could without feeling lethargic and icky, we boarded our second flight, a 9-hour long-haul. I was feeling much more at ease with a baby on a plane after having experienced it, even if it was short. Even though I was feeling pretty decent, the people around us may not have. As we boarded the plane, turning left into the premium economy cabin I had been adamant on (more room for baby, food constantly, great post-pandemic deal) I could see the stress and horror run across the faces of those who had paid more for a — hopefully — quieter and roomier flight. I didn’t blame them. Flying for 9 hours can be annoying and exhausting enough; no one would want to deal with a screaming baby for those 9 hours.

But, here’s the thing. A baby will — most likely — not scream for those 9 hours. They will maybe cry on take-off and landing if they refuse the breast, bottle, or snacks and water to help with their ears. They will maybe cry if they’re hungry. They may be a bit fussy and whiney every so often, but it is unlikely that they will scream for that long with no end in sight. And, with the right tools on your journey, you can cut all of that down to nil or very little.

I will admit, feeling the people around us tense up at seeing our baby happily boarding the plane, looking excitedly at everyone and everything, had my anxiety flare up. But, I held strong on feeling okay with it. Babies are allowed to be in public, and even though people act like this isn’t true, an airplane is public transportation. It is just a giant bus in the sky. Was I on edge a little more whenever she let out a peep? Of course. I always am when we are in public. But, I’d remain calm and calm her, getting what she needed to be happy and content. The flight attendant was amazing and so helpful, giving us extra tips and tricks and letting us know the best way to eat in peace.

At the end of that flight, the man across from us told us how amazing she was the entire flight as he took his luggage down from the overhead compartment. I beamed with pride, feeling like we had won family travelling, but if it wasn’t for the fact that babies needed to be ‘good’ and perfectly silent when in public, I never would have felt that anxiety or stress that society places on moms and babies.

Boarding a plane with a baby will be anxiety inducing every single time, even if you’re feeling pretty relaxed. There’s always that chance that absolutely everything will go wrong and there will be nothing you can do to stem the flow of pure shit — both literally and figuratively. As a society, we all have to remember that babies are part of our society and allowed to be out, too. Shutting up parents for years just so babies can look a part is cruel. If we remember this, maybe this anxiety will lessen and over time, become obsolete. A travelling mom can only hope.

Categories
Life

Welcome to Juniper and Daisies

Hi, everyone! I’m so excited you found my page. I’m Michelle Lee-Ann, and boy, have I got some stories to share.

I’ve had blogs throughout the years, going from travel niche to a lifestyle blog (The LT Edit), but neither felt 100% right. While I love travel, loved writing about it (still do!), and loved the fun articles I could post about gardening and decor on The LT Edit, it wasn’t what really made me feel inspired. I was never one for marketing and social media (despite actually holding that title in my job years ago); though fun, it was always so tedious and exhausting to keep up with what was trending.

I always loved telling stories. Writing whatever comes to mind and ranting about this and that. I had a small outlet of that on Medium, but after years of back and forth between blogs, taking time off to focus on my daughter, and deciding what in the world I want to put out there in the world, I finally landed on what I should be doing: writing stories.

Writing stories for me. For you. For everyone. I won’t be worrying about making click-bait titles and trying to do 1,000 affiliate programs and keep up with my social media platform. Right now, there isn’t even a social media platform for this blog. We’re taking baby steps here and listening to what I always tell everyone else to listen to: intuition. Go with your gut and all that.

So, I’m happy you landed here and hope you stick around to read some fun things, some grumpy things, some wistful things. Like what you find here? Tell everyone. Like, everyone. Happy reading!